Extended rainy spells in the garden

Here we were in a moderate drought and then a tropical wave brings us days and days of heavy rains and thunderstorms. Soggy, saturated soil will kill plants over time just as well as successive hot days with no rain can shorten a plants life. You need to recognize excess water as a problem. Normally, pooling water between will gradually seep into the soil and nourish roots. But after consecutive days of heavy rain, pooling water that remains above the surface for long periods of time indicates that below the surface is extremely waterlogged. The roots are drowning! Here are some tips and tricks for spotting and solving problems in your garden after heavy rains.

Look for any leaf or stem damage that may have occurred and stake up any plants that are leaning over. If there is only slight damage to leaves, you may be able to just remove them. Keep an eye on plants that have received moderate or heavy damage over the next couple days, the plant might be able to recuperate. Branches that are heavy with fruit may have broken, it’s often best to harvest then and try to ripen on a window sill and remove the broken limb. If the main stem of a plant has snapped then more than likely the plant may not survive and need to be removed from the garden.

Root systems are very vulnerable to damage when saturated. Walking near plants in saturated conditions can also cause soil impaction, which can limit root growth. If you have well designed garden beds or raised beds where you can reach each plant without stepping near them this won’t be a problem. If you find any exposed roots due to soil erosion, cover them with soil, mulch or compost as soon as possible. Do not let the roots dry out – this can be disastrous to the plant.


Heavy runoff can carry nutrients from the soil. Make sure to replenish these nutrients with fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer.


As soon as possible after stormy weather look for areas that may be draining poorly in your garden. You want to correct the areas of long pooling water in the garden. This can be very bad for plants, and leads to root rot. If you find areas that drain poorly, create ways to get the water to drain away from the vegetable garden. You could implement dry creek beds (rock beds), French drains, swales, perforated drain pipes or use plastic water drains to redirect water from the garden. Rain barrels are a good way to collect and divert rain water. A rain garden will also provide a place for the water to drain. (More about rain gardens later.)

Eliminate possible slug or snail hiding places. Slugs and snails love damp places. Remove any boards, stones, or other items that are lying around in or around the garden.


Keep an eye out for emerging weeds. Weeds will often pop up soon after a storm. The sudden charge of moisture to the soil will encourage weeds to spring up almost overnight. Mulch will help to prevent weeds in flower and vegetable gardens and to help with soil erosion.


Empty any containers that have collected water. Overturn any buckets, wheelbarrows, or pot saucers that contain rainwater. These are breeding grounds for mosquitoes and we sure don’t need more of those in our gardens!


Keep an eye out for fungal or bacterial diseases. Damp, humid conditions are perfect for fungal and bacterial disease development. Diseases, such as powdery mildew, will spread very quickly in these conditions. Treat these diseases as soon as they are noticed.

Remember never work clay soil when it is soggy. If the soil is too wet, it will pack into hard clods. Test the soil by squeezing a handful into a lump, and then push your thumb into the lump. If it dents like modeling clay, it is too wet. If it crumbles, then it is perfect to work.

Big Ideas for Small Spaces

I often miss the larger yards I had in my Florida and Georgia houses until the unrelenting heat and humidity of summer settles over the Lowcountry. Then I am happy to have a smaller yard. But the size of my yard does limit what I can do in the way of landscaping. So I am always looking for ideas to do the most with the space I have.

• Layering helps make the most of a small yard. Work from ground level upward, filling each layer with plants. Start with ground covers, annuals and perennial, then work up to shrubs, vines and trees.

• Plant flowering vines along fences, arbors and trellises. This will allow for maximum visual impact without eating up lots of precious garden space. Brighten privacy fences with trellises and flat-backed planters.

• Table top gardens and container gardens. Select a sturdy table that can hold about 50 pounds, and fill it with pots of flowers, veggies and herbs. Upkeep is minimal, and you’ll save your knees and back. Arrange potted plants in groups to save space and time watering.

• Want Veggies? Tuck tomatoes, peppers, and other edibles among sun-loving flowers, and train sprawling vegetables like cucumbers and pole beans to climb a trellis. Use lettuce as a border plant, or combine several varieties to make a low-growing bed. Small, compact squares work just as well as long rows.

• Even the tiniest yard needs trees or evergreens for a sense of structure. Many varieties of dwarf trees are ideal for small landscapes. Some examples: Flowering Dogwood, Eastern Redbud, Golden Raintree, Japanese Magnolia, and Crabapple.

Using some of these ideas we have managed to make the most of our smaller yard.

Flowers for Fall

I've always wanted the colorful splendor of my summer garden to linger until the first Frost. Living in the south my autumn yard does not shimmer with a palette of falling leaves. I have planted some American beautyberries which has gorgeous dark purple berries in the fall until the birds strip them for food and Loropetalum which has year-round purple leaves and flowers. My Maple trees and crape myrtles do give me a little color in the fall but not a lot. My dogwoods have not yet produced the red berries my older dogwoods in Georgia had every fall.

Fall blooming flowers come in rich colors that can extend the gardening season. I like to plant annual flower seeds that I have collected from deadheading or seed packets I purchased in the spring to plant later during July or early August for lovely autumn blossoms. The multicolored foliage of coleus is also one of my favorites to add late summer/fall color to my garden.

I use the annual flowers seeds to add to the perennials I already have growing in my garden including: Achilles (yarrow), sages, aster, coneflower, veronica, perennial saliva and day lilies that will continue to bloom into fall. I added Cassia earlier this year looking forward to the bright yellow blooms this fall.

I plan to seed zinnia, cosmos, lance-leaf coreopsis,Gloriosa Daisy,snapdragon, Celosia and Lady in red saliva in my perennial garden to cast a colorful spell in my fall garden. On occasion I have a second blooming of Carolina Jessamine and Crossvine to my fall color! This is one way I'm trying to extend color for all seasons in my garden.

Simple Water Saving Tips

Rain this summer has been very scattered and isolated and it seems to miss my location when it does rain! Watering a yard and garden with city water can be expensive, so here are some water-saving ideas.

A good way to start is by catching rain water in rain barrels. ¼” of rain can fill my rain barrels to overflowing. Rain water from my gutters fills my 55 gallon barrels very quickly even when rain is scarce. I use soaker hoses for some of my flower beds and hope to add drip irrigation at a later date as it can also shrink water bills, by delivering water just where it is needed. Organic mulch is a well known way for keeping soil moist. But what more can you do to reduce water usage in the garden and still have a healthy garden?

• Use and Reuse- Using gray water, or the water left over from everyday activities, is becoming more and more popular. Just make sure your gray water is free of softener salts-even trace amounts will effect the PH balance of the soil over time. Be creative- use a bowl to catch water when washing produce, let water from boiling vegetables cool, and then water a container. When its time to empty your dehumidifier tank don’t dump it down the drain-water pots or your garden. I use water from the kiddie pool our puppy plays in for watering containers plants, when it is time to empty the pool.

• Don’t Waste a Drop- make sure the water you are using really goes the distance-Example- when I water a hanging basket, I slide another container under it. Then if any water runs through the drain hole it will water the container below. Use a bucket to collect water from the faucet when you are running a bath or doing dishes to collect water as you wait for it to get hot.

• Redirect and Connect-Some water sources are easy to overlook because they are out of sight. If you have a sump pump try redirecting the drainage to benefit a planting area or connect the exit of the pump directly to a garden hose. Water that drips form an air conditioning unit can be channeled with plastic tubing delivering moisture to areas where it is most needed. Or I plant water loving plants where the AC water drips and never have to water there during AC use months. When it is time to drain our pond we try to direct the water to needed areas of the yard.

• All Systems Go-When running sprinklers be sure they only run long enough for your yard or garden to get the exact amount of water it needs. Using an automatic timer may lead to watering too frequently. Depending on your plants’ needs, soil type and recent weather 1” of water a week should do. Aim for two deep soaking a week. I have determined that water runs off my soil after 30 minutes and ends up in the gutter if left running longer. Measure distribution amounts with rain gauges or empty shallow cans set 1-foot apart as far as the spray from one sprinkler reaches.

• If you have access to a pond or stream you may be able to use it for irrigation but check with DNR to make sure it is allowed and to see if a permit is needed. Also growing more heat tolerant plants will cut down on watering needs. Some annuals and perennials thrive in dry conditions. Some annuals are: Celosia, Floss Flower, Gazania, Lantana, and Mexican Sunflower. Some perennials are: Artemisia, Butterfly Weed, Lamb’s Ear, Sedum, and Yarrow.

Try a few of these ideas and in no time at all you’ll notice some big saving!

Summer Garden Strategies

Summer heat often keeps us from walking through or working in our yard daily. But there are simple things you can do for your decorating and landscape theme.

Visit garage sales to find benches, deck boxes, and ottomans that provide both seating and storage and look out for vintage gardening gear and agricultural elements for decorating your exterior areas.

Take Preventive Measures- Add 2” of fresh mulch to improve your gardens overall appearance, prevent weeds and help soil retain moisture.

Visually Connect with Mother Nature- carry the colors and texture of nearby flowers and foliage to outdoor entertaining areas with accent pillows, outdoor rugs and table linens. Tuck succulents, dainty annuals, and fragments herbs into small clay pots to dress up table tops and walls.

Fill Voids- Buy annuals or perennials to fill gaps in your plantings. Or plan to on filling the holes with after-season bargain plants or plant divisions harvested in the fall from your garden.

Set Out Hummingbird Feeder- Look for a red-colored feeder and fill it with colorless sugar water (made from 1 cup sugar and 4 cups water, bring to boiling then cooled and stored extra in the refrigerator).

Pot Up Plants- Simplify container gardening by choosing potted plants that fit inside your decorative containers. Place the plant, pot and all, into the container. Fill portable containers with annuals and use them to jazz up fading perennials boarders.

Enhance Interest- Once gardens are going; use downtime to construct arbors, gazebos or to lay pathways and gravel-floored garden rooms.

Stay On Task- Keep watering during dry spells and continually deadhead and weed to ensure your landscape stays healthy and looks its best,

Plant it …and Forget it!

Puttering around the yard in nice spring and fall weather can be fun, but not so much fun in the summer and winter. Not to mention that you’d rather relax in your backyard than labor in it! As I continue to rework our backyard garden I’m trying to make a more, maintenance-free backyard. Here are a few tips I’ve picked up from others and doing a lot of reading.

Plant easy-care plants- There are a number of care-free plants, including yarrow, purple coneflower and yucca that are not just care-free but also drought-tolerant. Ornamental grasses, Portulaca, and stonecrop rarely need watering after a hot summer day. For more options, look for plants with succulent leaves that hold water. I’ve found begonia’s work well in a spot that receives some shade or even deep shade. Low maintenance for the future does require a little care when first planted. Follow the guidelines for light, spacing and soil conditions to make sure you put that easy-care plant in the correct spot. Also be aware some easy-care plants can spread and take over a planting area so choose plants carefully.



Gain maintenance-free yard with ground covers- The average home owner spends about 40 hours every year mowing their lawn. Add trimming, fertilizing and watering and it requires a lot of time to maintain that wonderfully green carpet of green. You can cut your work load by converting some of that lawn to ground covers; especially if you are trying to grow grass in a very shady area of your lawn. Low-growing, thyme, snow-in-summer, moss, mondo grass are pretty easy-care substitutes for grass. A added benefit will be less time spent watering and a lower water bill. Ground covers require 2 to 4 times less water than turf grass.


Remember to Mulch- This one thing may go the longest way to reducing the time you spend on your yard maintenance. A 2 to 4-inch layer of fresh wood mulch not only conserves water loss and reduces weeds but also give your yard a quick face-lift. If that isn’t enough there is the added bonus that wood mulch improves soil as it breaks down.



Lead the way- Lay gravel, stepping stone, brick or flagstone path that allows passage through your yard and gardens. Paved and gravel-covered area like paths and patios are generally low maintenance- and never need mowing! A path can help showcase your yard leading visitors to attractive and interesting areas of your landscape. Widen the path in these areas and it encourages people to pause and install a bench if you want your visitors to linger a while longer.



Hope you can use some of these ideas in your yard to reduce the time you spend working in your yard and increase the time you spend enjoying your yard!

8-Cheap and Easy Garden Tips

1. Repurpose: If you moved from ‘up north’ you may have a child’s plastic sled that isn’t getting used. Re purpose it and use it in the garden instead of an expensive garden cart for transporting flats of plants, heavy bags of soil, pots and other items from the shed or garage to your garden.
2. Recycle: Take that unwanted correspondence and junk mail shred it and add it to your compost bin, or place around trees and shrubs. Lightly rake loose surface soils away, spread the shredded paper, soak it, and replace the soil. Just stay away from the colored shiny advertisements.



3. Tree Stump solution: You’ve taken out the dangerous or sick tree but the cost of grinding the stump is not in the budget; consider turning it into a planter. For a large stump, hollow out the center by drilling large holes close together then carefully brake out the pieces with an ax. Drill a couple of downward sloping drainage holes through the sides of the trunk near the bottom of the cavity. For short small stumps try cutting the bottom out of a half barrel and place it over the stump. Fill planters with good quality potting soil and add plants.



4. Shady space ideas: Save time, energy and money when trying to plant in a shady spot with poor soil. When you can’t get things to grow beneath trees or fences, try using multi-tiered containers. Plant shade-loving plants and compact shrubs in the appropriate sized containers, set the containers larger ones in back and smaller ones in front. Use metal stands if some need to be taller. You can also use green or natural colored pots to better blend into the background and the containers won’t distract from the flowers.



5. Plant Markers that last: Remembering where you planted perennials can be a problem when they go dormant in the fall and before they re-emerge in spring. Labeling is the answer but often the labels don’t hold up, they fade, break or just disappear or looked unnatural. Try using rocks! Collect them on walks and bike rides or buy some river rocks. Wash the rocks and keep them in a handy pile near your garden supplies. (Smooth rocks work best.) Write the plant name in black enamel paint and cover in varnish. If your creative you can even paint a picture of the plant blossom!
6. New use for old Screens: Have you ever had trouble keeping soil from leaking out the drainage hole when filling a new planter? Discarded old screens can be the solution. Cut a square of out of the old screen a bit bigger than the bottom of the pot. Fit the screen inside the pot and fill with soil. The soil will stay put and you will still have good drainage!
7. Cheap Rain barrels: purchase a trash with a lid or repurpose an old one. Then cut your downspouts slightly higher than the height of your trash can, then using a utility knife, cut an opening into the lid of the can that can accommodate the downspout. Just lift the lid and dip in a watering can to use.



8. Decorate a lamppost- Train an annual climber like hyacinth bean or moonflower vine, to crawl up a lamppost. Wrap the post with chicken wire and then plant seeds or seedling (you started indoors) at the base of the post in spring after the threat of frost is past. By mid-summer; the vine will encircle the post. By August it should reach the top and be in full flower.

Removing a Tree from your landscape

When we moved into our home in 2004 our backyard had only 2 pine trees and one small oak tree. It was quite a shock after leaving a home in Georgia that had over 30 trees. In order to develop some shade quickly I planted 4 Red maple trees I bought on clearance at a Lowe's Home Improvement Store and also two seedlings I brought from Georgia. I picked Red Maples for two reasons; one Red maples establish quickly and look good at a young age and two; I love the color of the leaves in the fall.

But the light-colored bark of this tree does present problems because trunk damage to young red maples is very common. Due to the light gray bark, the tree suffers from a condition referred to as sunscald, which happens during the winter. This environmental problem causes the trunk bark layer to split open. This break in the bark severely weakens the tree. A weakened and stressed tree is more likely to be attacked by borers. The tree cannot transmit water and nutrients up into the plant resulting in poor growth and possibly death. If the tree does survive and heal over, the trunk is weakened because of internal rot and decay. It will never completely heal and the hazard potential is increased.

I didn't realize this is what was causing a problem with one of the trees we had planted in December of 2004. The tree never did thrive and even with extra care and watering it just couldn't manage the drought of the last couple of years. This week I noticed the leaves had curled and turned crispy. We decided it was time to remove the tree. We had to remove another maple we had planted at the same time 2 years ago for similar reasons. Two other trees are doing well and I have to wonder if the problems of these trees may have been made worse by the soil or environmental problems. As it turns out both trees were located in spots where they were in the way.

My original landscape plan had changed over the years and the trees I planted were really in the way of our storage shed. So taking them out was not such a bad thing. I also kind of went overboard when planting trees in our small yard. I attribute this over planting to the shock of moving to a home with almost no trees after having so many trees in my former yard.

Removing this tree will change the make-up of the yard. This spot will now get more sun and the birds will not have the tree to use for perching and nesting. I have had to relocate a few shade loving plants that were shaded by the maple and luckily there is a metal arch where birds can perch. The small oak tree has also grown and is able to provide perching and nesting areas. There are no plans at this time to replace the tree.

I've called my yard "ever changing" and I guess it is living up to that description!

Separating plants and pets in a landscape

As you may have heard we brought home a new puppy in about a week ago. A dog can be mans best friend but not so for flowers and plants. You may wonder if it is possible to have an attractive backyard that is also secure enough to keep your pup from wandering off. The answer is “Yes” with some planning.

Here are ideas and tips I’ve learned from raising several Labs and Lab-mix dogs. With some planning I’ve been to make my yard/garden attractive for us and Lab-friendly for the pets. If you have the space, you can divide your yard into two sections, creating a formal lawn and garden next to the house for enjoyment and entertaining and a lawn at the back of the yard where the dog can run and play. This area could be divided using green lattice fencing that separated the areas but allows breezes to flow through. The lattice can also be used to support roses, clematis, and other climbers to add privacy. I considered this option in one of our homes when we lived in Florida but moved before implementing my plan. Instead I’ve gone with an integrated plan where we share the same space. In our latest home we don’t have as much outdoor space as is previous homes so I have developed a plan that has worked for me and might work for you as well.

You can expect a certain amount of wear and tear to your landscape if you have a dog but your dog (my Labs) don’t have to destroy every living green thing in sight. I use small portable fences to protect my delicate and easily damaged plants like Hostas and hydrangeas and to keep them from running through planting areas when chasing squirrels or each other. I use raised beds for my vegetables and herb gardens and use containers for other plants and flowers. Drought-resistant plants are often tough enough to stand up to dogs and I’ve found use tough-trample proof ground covers like mondo grass, creeping jenny and mazus reptans useful in some areas of my yard. (Our new puppy Annabelle loves laying in my dwarf mondo and Maggie the 2 year old like the creeping jenny.) We’ve worked concrete and flagstone walkways and patios into our backyard designs making for a little less time spent on maintaining a lawn. In the open grass area I’ve kept for running and playing I’ve provided a few trees for shade on sunny days. If you don’t have shade in your grassy area consider a shade tarp to provide a protected area for your dog to escape from the hot sun.

Labs and other dogs will resort to digging when left alone maybe because they are convinced there is a small animal deep in the ground or because they are bored. I never leave my puppy alone in the yard and monitor the time my older Lab spends alone outside. There are too many f possibilities or damage to my landscape to leave a pup alone. If you have a dog that likes to dig and keeps returning to the same spots, try fencing the area and remove any rodents that may be nesting in the ground cover. If that doesn’t help you can build a designated digging area. Choose a shady spot with soft soil in a back corner of your yard. To encourage your puppy or dog to use the space bury some favorite toys and plastic bones when your pup is not around. Then later show interest in the spot by digging a few shovelfuls and soon he’ll follow your lead. Use an upbeat voice and using his name say “okay, dig”. If he strays out of this digging area redirect him by hiding another toy or bone. Just remember it may take a little while for your dog to catch on so have some patience.

Perhaps your yard is already established when you get your new puppy and you just can’t wait for him or her to out grow they seek and destroy phase you may want to consider an underground electronic or wireless fencing system to protect your plants and planting beds. When used properly and with consistent training, underground and wireless fences can quickly teach your dog to respect boundaries. Up to now I’ve never needed to use an underground system. My Labs have learned rather quickly my pants are off limits!

When planning your landscape remember that many common plants found in backyards and homes can be poisonous to your dog. You will need to remove the plants or protect your dog from ingesting them. Here is a part list of some plants that can be deadly to your dog. Amaryllis, autumn crocus, azalea/rhododendron, castor bean, chrysanthemum, cyclamen, Daphne, dogbane, English Ivy, foxglove, kalanchoe, lilies, marijuana, narcissus bulbs, oleander, peace lily, pothos, sago palm, schefflera, tulip bulbs, white snakeroot and yew. For a more complete list visit the Cornell website: http://www.ansci.connell.edu/plants

Now I will admit you will find some of these plants in my yard. I’ve found that once my puppies mature out of the mouthy chewing stage they don’t try to eat my plants. So I fence my beds and delicate plants and monitor the time my puppy spends outside alone. A puppy pen in a grassy area away from all plants could help while a puppy outgrows this stage. If they don’t outgrow eating everything green consider a dedicated fenced run area away from dangerous plants Occasionally my dogs will eat grass and so I keep some oat grass also called cat grass growing in a pot and that seems to satisfy their need for greens.

Besides dangerous plants, fertilizers and pest control products can be hazardous to your pet’s health, as many contain toxins in the chemicals. Read the labels on everything you use on your lawn and plants to make sure they are pet safe. It’s not only chemicals that pose a danger for your pet. Even something natural like a compost pile or sweet smelling cocoa mulch, could be harmful and deadly if ingested by your dog. Other outdoor hazards in your dog’s outdoor environment include: sharp gardening tools and supplies, barbeque equipment, citronella candles, pools chemicals and exposed wiring.

Spending quality time with your dog relieves boredom that can lead to dangerous and destructive behavior. Daily walks, playing fetch, dog parks, and dog training classes go a long way to challenge your dog mentally and physically and relieve boredom. Believe it or not eventually your pup will out grow seeking and destroying every part of your landscape/yard.

Backyard Mosquito Management

”Why didn’t Noah swat those 2 mosquitoes?” ~ Author Unknown

So mosquito season is here again in the Lowcountry and it will most likely be a terrible one with the lack of cold weather this last winter. If your idea of Mosquito management is dousing yourself and your nearest and dearest in your favorite DEET product and then stepping out to enjoy a night under the stars or by swatting at the blood-suckers as they bite you during a 4th of July bar-b-que you may need to reevaluate your control practices.

Many communities have fogging/spray programs; this is an Adulticiding program. Adulticiding programs spray pesticides indiscriminately and do not get at the mosquitoes until they have matured and are already nibbling on your skin. They also do little to restrict breeding. Over time Mosquitoes develop resistance to chemical pesticides, which render the chemicals ineffective. Adulticides represent considerable risk to all living things, and kill beneficial insects and natural mosquito predators, such as dragonflies, damselflies, and beetles. According to entomologists from Cornell University, close to 99.9 percent of the sprayed chemicals end up in the environment where they can have damaging effects on public health and ecosystems, leaving only 0.10 percent to actually hit the targeted mosquitoes. This questions the efficacy of spray-based strategies against mosquitoes and you will still have a lot of the annoying insects in your yard. To best manage mosquitoes, you have to get rid of the situations that are attracting them to your property, when you detect them kill them before they breed; you need to kill them before they become adults. That’s called LARVACIDE!

So what do mosquito’s need to thrive in your yard? Why are they finding your backyard so attractive? They need suitable aquatic breeding habitats in order to complete their lifecycle (a.k.a they need water). Eggs must be laid on the surface of slow-moving or standing water.

Your first step in managing mosquitoes should be to remove any and all potential breeding areas – anyplace that water collects – from your yard. This will provide long-term control over mosquito populations and will also control populations before they mature and have a chance to reproduce, transfer disease, and just plain annoy.
If mosquitoes do breed, larvaciding allows control measures to be used in targeted areas, while mosquito larvae are still concentrated in breeding pools and before adult mosquitoes spread throughout the community.

Ideas for Personal Prevention
• Remain indoors in the evenings, when most mosquito activity occurs.
• Use screened-in porches instead of open porches.
• Use herbal repellents to ward off mosquitoes, such as Skin-So-Soft. Reapply often. Herbs that repel mosquitoes include cedar wood, garlic, lemongrass, frankincense, cinnamon, geranium, eucalyptus, basil, rosemary, cloves, peppermint, lemon balm (citronella), onions, feverfew, thyme, and marigold.
• Essential oils of the herbs listed above are also good repellents, though most are volatile organic compounds and will bother someone who is sensitive to scents. To mix your own essential oil repellent, add 10 drops of essential oil to 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, stir, and dab a few drops on your skin or clothing. Pregnant women should consult their doctors before using essential oils.
• Neem oil is used as a mosquito repellent cream and composed of 2% crude neem oil is a highly effective repellent.
• When you are outdoors burn citronella candles and torches to control mosquitoes in the immediate vicinity when there is no wind.


Here are some hints for Household Prevention and control
• Maintain window screens and doors, closing all opened doors.
• Remove or regularly drain all water-retaining objects, such as tin cans, pet dishes, buckets, holes in trees, clogged gutters and down spouts, old tires, birdbaths, trash can lids, and shallow fishless ponds. Check ponds and sources of water for signs of mosquito larvae and stock permanent water pools, such as ornamental ponds, with mosquito larvae eating fish.
• Check for standing water in plastic or canvas tarps used to cover pools and boats. Arrange tarps to drain water and turn canoes and small boats upside down for storage.
• Use Mosquito Dunks™ (made from Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis) one of the most popular and most effective least-toxic biological controls. The dunks are safe for birdbaths, rain barrels, ponds, ditches, tree holes, roof gutters, unused swimming pools — anywhere water collect.
• Fix dripping outside water faucets.
• Keep street gutters and catch basins and rain barrels free of debris and working properly.

Even if you put the above ideas for control into practice you will still need to monitor mosquito activity in your yard. Check for standing water after rain showers, and change birdbath water often to keep mosquitoes from using them to breed. Hopefully these practices will lead to a more enjoyable summer season.